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Nice summary, but something immediately sticks out to me: there was never any mention of evaluating the medical condition of J upon your arrival on the ledge.

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Also agreed, I should have abandoned that idea immediately, but unfortunately was blinded a bit by the idea of trying to save gear which was agreed not ideal.

Well I must have been misinformed then, but at the very least it would have been quite roundabout to get to and I obviously was unfamiliar (this being more J's home territory), particularly with looming early nightfall.

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Bill said, A was by far our least experienced person, and so while I was dealing with J, B was getting everything together and saw to it that A could get down from the exposed scramble while it was still light.

Not sure if this is the best section of the forum to post this in but if anyone cares to read weigh in this is the summary I wrote after doing a self?

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I'm guessing your original plan of lowering J off the top anchor was an attempt to avoid leaving gear at J's location, which is a good idea but should be abandoned as soon as you realize the top anchor is suspect.

If bad injury was involved, send A to get to the road to flag a car down to get help, and evaluate if lowering can be achieved without worsening any injury.

Would have mostly been same approach, except I would have made the anchor entirely and would have had to take care of all parts of setting him up.

You had a 60m and a 50m available so you could have rapped up to 110m if necessary by leaving ropes behind (not suggesting you needed to do that in this scenario).

Excellent write up, Thanks for sharing and subjecting yourself to the armchair vicissitudes of the assclown peanut gallery known as MP.

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The ascender clipped to my chest also made it easier to pull the rope through when it got slightly stuck when taking it down.

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One ultra quick possibly would be (assuming your thought the pieces J put in at the top were OK) that J simply jumped off.

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